Lerouy
Michelin star dining is quite pricey in Singapore unlike in US and Europe so i'm always happy to find a well-priced one- Lerouy is one of the few and they do not stinge on the experience. There's no stuffiness or snootiness at this modern French restaurant by Chef Christophe Lerouy. At Lerouy 2.0, their industrial-chic space was anything but cold as 2 loops of organically shaped counters wind round the open kitchen and diners get a full view of the precise preparation of each dish.
We were in for a surprise for our 7-course grand lunch ($78) with no inkling of what's to come, given the purposeful omission of a menu. The omakase style allows Lerouy to present a mysterious seasonal menu, which adds to the excitement of dining here.
Four tapas appetisers and petits fours supplement the courses. A crunchy mille feuille style of Bibeleskaes potato with fresh cream and Alsace bacon was the opening act. Followed by a series of refreshing acidity in the lentils with smoked herring and horseradish on a cracker; a lightly spiced Carabinero ceviche with pickled mioga ginger and calamansi espuma, and ending with a Japanese style Asian Beef Tea made using a Japanese dashi base and a touch of keffir lime.
Next, a generous baby sourdough loaf which was so darn good. Lovely crust with a fluffy interior, the bread came served with 4 butters- regular, beetroot, seaweed and charcoal. The beetroot was surprisingly our favorite with a touch of sweetness and light earthiness.
The rootedness in French classical cooking continues to present itself in the meal, but the flavors are anything but traditional. The typical buttery richness is balanced with acid and herbs in most dishes. Actually i wouldn't be surprised if acid is the base of the meal.
Japanese scallops with dashi jelly, Kaviari caviar, green shiso ice cream and a touch of yuzu kosho to brighten up the dish. I consider this quite a bold dish, given that the accompaniments could easily overpower the delicate flesh but somehow the components worked well together and a daring dish was born.
Someone mixed up the order of our dishes, which resulted in a slight wait and the wrong sequence. However, Chef Lerouy's signature salt baked cabbage was quite worth the passing of time. On top of the humble cabbage, a vibrant and robust anchoiade sauce spiked with tangy lime provided a coat of umami. Crunchy lado peppered the dish, adding textural delight.
The NZ Ora King salmon came swimming in a sea of green chives broth. That lovely coral pink flesh was joined by a meaty porcini and French escargot, and a thin slice of Saint Grey Ventrèche with a transparent fat and they sat surrounded by yet another green sea of chives sauce. At this point I was quite certain that Chef’s favorite color is green.
Blood was then spilled. The spice rubbed venison was a striking beauty on the white canvas, with dollops of beetroot and artichoke purée to tame it slightly.
On to desserts, a wreath of chocolate sponge, Chantilly cream, purée of Tonka bean (like a salty vanilla caramel and likely deadly when consumed in large amounts) and a luscious Bailey’s ice cream.
For Petits Fours, a quince mousse with long pepper, almond cashew cáñale and a hawthorne-like green apple pate fruit.
Lovely meal at Lerouy and i would come back in a heartbeat. Certainly one of the best meals we've had in 2020.
LEROUY 2.0
104 Amoy St, Singapore 069924
+65 6221 3639
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