Mirazur, World's Best Restaurant Pop-up in Singapore
We may not be able to fly to the French Riviera but Mandala Club has brought its best to us, Michelin three-star and current World's Best on the 50 Best list- Mirazur from Menton. The pop-up has extended its run till 12 Sep 2021 no thanks to the dining restrictions in Singapore earlier but that also led me to scoring a table at this exclusive.
This is the first time that diners outside of Menton get to experience Mirazur's reimagined concept which is based on the lunar calendar and its influence on the gardens. The menu revolves around the four "universes"- Root, Leaf, Flower, and Fruit, and the harmony of the position of the Moon in the sky with the energy concentrated in each part of the plant. The ingredients used as local and seasonal, in line with this philosophy and the team is working with local suppliers like Edible Garden City, Kok Fah Technology Farm, Toh Thye San and Nutrinest for the menu in Singapore.
The Mirazur team is lead by head chef of the residency Luca Mattioli, who has worked with chef-patron Mauro Colagreco for over five years, and restaurant director Geoffrey Le Mer.
The 6-course lunch ($388) was a 3 hour affair and we started off with a series of snacks. The 50-layer potato with butter and horseradish was a delightful crunchy popsicle on a twig, and we also enjoyed the burst of jammy flavors in the caramelized onion with Comte cheese. The radish cups were a tad too chunky for us and we thought the combination with trout eggs wasn't complementary. Last of the snacks was the sweet potato cone with pink garlic espuma.
Then we had a flower-shaped bread loaf (which texture was more of a biscuit), served with Mirazur's special infused olive oil, with ingredients from the Mirazur garden. The ginger-citrus flavors were absolutely refreshing and stunning with the bread. I also enjoyed the carrot-shaped Brittany butter infused with carrot jus.
Radish, Sea Bream, and Citrus- a lovely rose made with layers of radish (red, green and daikon), vegetable jelly (grapefruit, orange and spirulina) with slices of Japanese marinated Sea Bream. This dish is rather Japanese inspired, with a smoky and citrusy dashi to bring the ingredients together.
Beetroot and Caviar- A signature of Mirazur. The beet is salt-baked till soft and tender and served with the high end caviar. You'd be surprised at how the beet outshine the caviar in this dish. I couldn't get enough of the sweetness of the beet, which dances with the silky cream and ocean flavors of the caviar.
New Potato and Smoked Eel- little starchy potatoes with Spanish smoked eel and smoked eel emulsion. You know it's delicious when there's a harmony of salt, fat, and acidity in the dish. And how adorable is the ice plant (i really love them).
The Dark Side of The Moon is a love or hate dish and unfortunately i'm just not a fan of licorice and you get the full-on artificial sweet and bitter flavor. The aged monkfish was fabulous on its own (i scraped away most of the black coating which i wasn't sure was black garlic or licorice), with a cuttlefish flavor and tight meaty flesh.
Our main was the Celeriac and Guineafowl- the pillars of root vegetables was a visual delight with columns of carrot, sweet potato, celeriac and also Granny Smith apples. The bird was first sous vide then pan roasted and served with an impressive Albufera sauce made with Guineafowl stock with truffle, cream, balsamic vinegar, and 3 types of alcohol- Madeira, Port and Cognac.
The second serving of the bird was a consommé with ravioli, and a rich confit with espuma which i polished despite all the dishes i've eaten.
For dessert, the Purple Vitello Potato and Coffee- a visually stunning dessert with the most unique combination of ingredients. I definitely did not expect coffee to go well with potatoes but it did. It was also surprisingly light, thanks to the coffee mousse which helped with our food coma.
Finally the Mignardises- purple carrot sorbet; chewy ginger Financier; and peanut chocolate (just like Reeses but better).
We left with a souvenir of macarons which are specially created by Janice Wong, extending our Mirazur experience featuring the Moon and four universes of Mirazur.
It has been a while since my last fine-dining experience. While the service wasn't as attentive, the staff were very friendly and we felt super comfortable to simply be ourselves and enjoy our food and conversation. That said, the food and experience would probably land itself in the 1.5- 2 star category.
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